Wandering the Coolest Neighborhood in Sweden’s Second City

Sweden’s charming low-key west coast hub, Gothenburg, actually lives up to its reputation as the “Little London” of Scandinavia thanks to one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city, Haga. The district was first established in the 17th century and became Gothenburg’s first suburb, although today it is in the city center and easily accessible by foot, bike, public transport, or car from anywhere in Gothenburg. It was known as a rough area until the 1970s, when all the neighborhood’s buildings were either torn down or renovated and Haga experienced an upswing. Its car-free cobblestone streets, picturesque low wooden houses, and stunning stone buildings are still its defining features today. The bustling pedestrian street Haga Nygata is always crowded with both locals and tourists darting between all the independent shops and cafés, or the stands during the weekend farmers markets. If you’re a traveler who prefers to limit your scope to one neighborhood—or you just want to explore the coolest part of town for a day—consider this your keys to the best corner of Sweden’s second city.

What to Do
The neighborhood is overlooked by the 17th century fortress Skansen Kronan. Despite the trek (read workout), it’s definitely worth climbing. You can choose between a scrubby and snaking trail or about 100 leg-murdering steps; either way, the uncomfortable walk will soon be forgotten when you reach your goal and can enjoy the stunning view over Haga and Gothenburg. Below Skansen Kronan, spend time in the lush Hagaparken where you’ll find two landmarks worth checking out. One is the church Hagakyrkan and the other, the statue honoring the Swedish humanitarian and diplomat Raoul Wallenberg, celebrated for having saved tens of thousands of Jewish lives during the Holocaust. The monument was created by the famous Swedish artist Charlotte Gyllenhammar and inaugurated in the park in 2007 by Kofi Annan. A quiet street a few blocks down offers another art highlight in the district, the contemporary craft shop and art gallery Sintra.

A building in Haga and the Raoul Wallenberg monument in HagaparkenPhoto: Courtesy of Matilde Wergeland / @matildew

Another must-do in the area is a visit to the extraordinarily beautiful spa and wellness center Hagabadet, which first opened its doors in 1876. Offering day passes with access to the spa, gym, and a wide range of different workout classes (try to book any of their hot yoga classes or the Boxfit class), this is the perfect escape for fidgety travelers. Unwind in their different saunas and heated pools, then treat yourself with a calming massage or facial.

Where to Eat
Hagabadet’s own restaurant, the newly opened Lemon & Lime, is another place to write down on your list. And it might not come as a surprise that this place has put a healthy and nutritious spin on traditional snacks and meals. Relish raw chocolate tartes, blue spirulina bowls, green smoothies, matcha lattes, and a mouthwatering brunch buffet on the weekends. Other great options for the health-conscious are the enchanting vegetarian restaurants Solrosen and En Deli, located just around the corner from Hagabadet. Also make sure to try Sjöbaren, where Swedish specialties from the sea, such as fish soup, herring, and fresh shrimp from the west coast take center stage. Brasseriet 8586 is a relatively new gem in Haga, and a perfect spot for people watching, where a stylish industrial interior as well as a delicious array of pastries will greet you as you walk in.

Hagabadet and Lemon & LimePhoto: Courtesy of Matilde Wergeland / @matildew

The Best Coffee Break
As you have probably already heard, “fika” (coffee, tea, or a soda accompanied by something sweet, such as a cinnamon bun or chocolate cake) is almost a religious thing in this country—it’s regarded by most inhabitants as a daily meal, as important as breakfast or dinner. If you’re ready to try Haga’s fika of the fikas (and don’t have any dinner plans within the next five hours or so), Café Husarenis a mandatory stop. They’re famous for their gigantic cinnamon bun, called “The Haga Bun.” If the plate-sized bun seems overwhelming, they also have a never-ending menu of other delectable pastries including cookies, cakes, and tarts.

Market 29 and the “Haga Bun” at Café HusarenPhoto: Courtesy of Matilde Wergeland / @matildew

Three other popular fika meccas worth a pilgrimage are the espresso bar Nöller, Café Hebbe Lelle, and Jacob’s Café. Le Petit Café is another gem beloved for its incredible range of homemade cookies and cakes, as well as enticing breakfasts. Last but not least, one of the oldest cafés in the area is the delightful traditional Swedish Café Kringlan. This recommendation should come with a warning though, since they also have a stand full of delights on the outside during the weekends, making it absolutely impossible not to grab a freshly baked pastry (or three) on the go as you pass by.

Shopping Stops
If you, against all odds, haven’t gotten your fika fix during your Haga visit, there are a few shops where you can get that problem sorted out, to go. Pralinboden is stocked with Swedish lollipops, fudges, pralines, chocolate bars, polkagris, cookies, and much more. Curry House and Tea’s Te & Kaffe sell the best kinds of caffeine to take back to your Airbnb (or back in your suitcase).

Along with all the lovely cafés, Haga is also dotted with stylish places to find home goods and one-of-a-kind vintage items. Discover old-school books and music equipment, ancient china, and retro furniture at Små Kära Ting, Fåfängan Antik, Bebop, and Antikvariatet Röde Orm. The two amazing interior shops Rum för Inspiration and Haga Hem won’t disappoint you either. Finally, the incredible Market 29, designed like an impeccably decorated stylish Scandinavian home, sells bed linen in earthy tones, sleek and contemporary kitchenware, brass candleholders, ceramic pots, rustic wooden furniture, and much more. You might be tempted to redecorate your entire home.

If you’re in search of a closet update, check out the Swedish brand Twist & Tango’s chic store on Haga Nygata followed by a visit to the boutique Wos, hidden on a side street. Wos specializes in limited edition accessories produced by up-and-coming designers. In case you’re curious about traditional Swedish handiwork, get your souvenirs from Haga Trätoffelfabrik and Haga of Sweden. Find gifts for the kids at charming toy stores Liten Karin and Unicorn and Sons. Lastly, for otherworldly wares, pay a visit to Regnbågens Böcker & Smycken, a wonderful hidden jewel filled with dream catchers, healing gem stones, essential oils, scented candles, and inspirational books.